Golin/Harris Guide to Chicago and the Tropicana 400

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THE GOLIN/HARRIS GUIDE TO CHICAGO

Welcome to the Windy City! If your visit to the Tropicana 400 NASCAR Winston Cup Series race at Chicagoland Speedway isn't the only new experience you hope to enjoy this weekend, here is a quick guide to let you know what's happening away from the track. Although Chicago is known for Da' Bears, the Cubs and Capone, it has great restaurants, nightlife, museums and more.

Cool Things to Do

Check out the skyline: For a great view of Chicago's famous architecture, book tickets on the Architecture Boat Tours, hosted by the Chicago Architecture Foundation. Cruise along Lake Michigan and the Chicago River with commentary by Chicago Architecture Foundation docents. Weekdays 10-3; Sat 9-3 and at 5; Sun 9-3. Board at the SE corner of Michigan and Wacker, lower level. For tickets, call 312-902-1500. Or board the Chicago Architecture Foundation's free Loop Tour Train for a great el's-eye view of downtown. A special CTA elevated train circles the Loop three times per 40-minute tour, while a CAF docent in each car describes points of architectural and historical interest. The tour runs four times a day on Saturdays May through September. Tickets must be obtained in advance at the Chicago Office of Tourism Visitor Information Center on the first floor of the Chicago Cultural Center (77 E. Randolph St.; 312-922-3432, ext. 241, or www.architecture.org.

Shop on Mag Mile: No trip to Chicago is complete without a shopping trip down the Magnificent Mile. From great department stores like Nordstrom, Bloomingdale's and Marshall Fields to designer boutiques and unique specialty shops. Take a break in the plaza at the original Water Tower on Michigan Ave. to watch the tourists. Or, take the express elevator to the 95th floor observatory at the John Hancock building, where you can get a 360 degree view of the entire city.

Sail on the Navy Pier: This former Naval station is now an entertainment complex with restaurants, bars, outdoor areas with a Ferris wheel, a children's museum and the big-screen IMAX theatre (showing ESPN's UNTIMATE X - The Movie, an inside look at all the action of ESPN's wildly popular X Games; Shackleton's Antarctic Adventure. $8.50, D; 312-595-0090). It also houses the Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows displayed along the lower level terraces of Festival Hall.

See the local wildlife: Chicago's John G. Shedd Aquarium, located on Lake Michigan, offers fish fun for the whole family. The Pacific Northwest exhibit features Beluga whales, penguins, otters and more. (1200 S. Lake Shore Dr.; 312-939-7827). Lincoln Park Zoological Gardens is an urban zoo, 3.5 acres housing more than 1,000 animals, has a Small Mammal-Reptile House that re-creates the climates and conditions of four continents, and has a clutch of koala bears besides. The zoo also has one of the largest gorilla collections in the world, along with a world-class collection of exotic big cats in a naturalistic setting. Of special interest is the kid-size Farm-in-the-Zoo. Open daily 9-5. (2200 N. Cannon. 312-742-2000).

Visit the local museums: Chicago offers museums with just about every kind of collection possible. Some are free, others charge admission.
* Art Institute of Chicago- the city's visual Valhalla (111 S. Michigan Ave.; 312-443-3600)
* Museum of Contemporary Art- a collection of ultramodern works in all media (220 E. Chicago Ave.; 312-280-2660)
* Adler Planetarium & Astronomy Museum- a sky watcher's delight (1300 S. Lake Shore Dr.; 312-922-7827)
* Museum of Contemporary Photography- Contemporary photographers Nikki S Lee, Oliver Boberg, and Zwelethu Mthethwa. (Columbia College Chicago, 600 S Michigan. 312-663-5554).
* Museum of Broadcast Communications (inside the Chicago Cultural Center) - more than 70,000 radio and TV programs and commercials (78 E. Washington St.; 312-629-6000). No admission charge.
* The Field Museum- a cornucopia of anthropological, botanical, geological, and zoological artifacts (1400 S. Lake Shore Dr.; 312-922-9410). Free on Wednesday.
* Chicago Children's Museum- stimulating exhibits and activities for kids up through the fifth grade; free from 5 to 8 p.m. (700 E. Grand Ave., on Navy Pier; 312-527-1000). Free on Thursdays.
* Museum of Science and Industry- mankind's scientific and technological achievements (57th St. and Lake Shore Dr.; 773-684-1414). Free on Thursdays.

Chicago Sports: In addition to the Winston Cup race, the Chicago sports calendar features a pennant race, world's longest freshwater race, major league soccer and arena football.
* Chicago Cubs at Wrigley Field: July 12 @ 2:20 p.m. vs. Florida Marlins, July 13th @ 3:05 p.m. vs. Florida Marlins, July 14th @1:20 p.m. vs. Florida Marlins, July 15th @ 7:05 p.m. vs. Atlanta Braves. Tickets from $10-$30. For more information call: 773-404-CUBS. http://www.cubs.com <http://cubs.mlb.com/NASApp/mlb/chc/homepage/chc_homepage.jsp/>
* Schaumburg Flyers, (Independent Northern League)-July 12th v.s. Duluth-Superior @ 7:20 p.m. July 13th v.s. Duluth-Superior @ 6:20 p.m. Located about 1 hr. from Joliet. Free parking. For more information call: (847) 891-4545. Tickets, (847) 891-2255. http://www.flyersbaseball.com/

Theatre Productions: If you're looking for something on the cultural side, Chicago has great theater. Current productions include:
* Movin' Out- Experience the pre-Broadway tryout of this musical conceived, choreographed, and directed by Twyla Tharp. Told through the music of Billy Joel, it follows the lives of six friends from 1967 through 1987. Shubert Theater, 22 W. Monroe. 312-902-1400
* The Wizard of Oz- This family-friendly musical inspired by the classic MGM film takes audiences on a magical journey along the yellow brick road. Chicago Shakespeare Theater, Navy Pier, 800 E. Grand, 312-595-5600
* BS- Fans of TV's ER can catch their favorite doctors figuratively tangled in their stereoscopes in this parody by the Free Associates. Royal George Theater, 1641 N. Halsted, 312-988-9000.
* Galileo Galilee- This much-anticipated world-premiere examines the controversial life of the titular Italian scientist-philosopher as a multimedia opera
* Blue Man Group- Three guys painted blue? No, they aren't race fans. It's an entertaining ensemble with splattering paint and sight gags. Briar Street Theatre, 3133 N Halsted. 773-348-4000.
* The Second City- The comedy theater where George Wendt and Chris Farely, among others, got their start. The current production, Thank Heaven It Wasn't 7-11, features a six-member cast that darts boldly between menacing and giddy comedy. 1616 N Wells. 312-337-3992.

To Get Tickets: There are a couple of ways to score half-price tickets: First, try Hot Tix, (78 W. Randolph St.; 163 E. Pearson St and all Tower Records stores). They're sold on the day of performance Tuesday through Sunday; on Friday (starting at 5 p.m. Thursday in the Loop) for Friday through Monday. The selection of shows changes every day as well as during the day. Check www.hottix.org <http://www.hottix.org>. If you strike out with Hot Tix, you may get lucky at the last minute with rush tickets. Call individual theatres for their policies. At the Goodman Theatre, for example, half-price tickets go on sale a the box-office window at noon for that day's matinées and at 6 p.m. for that evening's 7:30 or 8 p.m. performances (170 N. Dearborn St.; 312-443-3800); at Steppenwolf, tickets are sold, when available, one hour prior to curtain (1650 N. Halsted St.; 312-335-1650).

Music: Chicago has a wide range of music, from concerts to clubs. Local bars offer great bands and new sounds, while Chicago's blues bars present some of the city's best musicians.
* Ravinia Festival- July 10 John Hiatt, a feisty rock 'n' roller and one of the most profound songwriters working today. $35. July 16, the exceptional jam-band Blues Traveler. $35.
* Tweeter Center- July 13 John Mellencamp performs his clumsy-but-undeniable anthems.
* Chicago Folk & Roots Festival-July 13, 14. Another eclectic extravaganza hosted by the Old Town School of Folk Music. Headliners include Huun-Huur-Tu, the Sam Bush Band, Los Folkloristas, and many more. Workshops include African drumming, Cajun dancing, and hula, salsa, and polka music. $5. Welles Park, 4400 block of Lincoln Ave. 773-728-6000.
* Chicago's Best Blues: If you've got the blues, Chicago is your kind of town. Check out Blue Chicago, a River North joint with local blues journeymen and women. (736 N. Clark, 312-642-6261). Blues, a really great place to experience the blues as they should be heard- up close, with a lively crowd, plenty of booze, and no nonsense. (2519 N. Halsted; 773-528-1012). Buddy Guy's Legends mixes the best of the local scene with national blues acts. Arrive early to get a good seat. (754 S Wabash; 312-427-0333). Kingston Mines is a cavernous spot with music seven nights a week. It also boasts a second music stage. (2548 N. Halsted; 773-477-4646).
* Local Acts: Chicago is the home of Smashing Pumpkins and Liz Phair, and local bars feature future stars on a regular basis. House of Blues routinely hosts legends and bright young stars from every facet of contemporary music. July 10 -- Guitarist Ted Nugent. July 11-Bad Company. July 12 -Little Feat. July 13, 14 -The Get Up Kids. Or try the Metro, featuring everything from rap to metal. (3730 N. Clark, 773-549-3604), the Double Door, with local acts on weeknights and off-the-beaten-path national bands on weekends, (1572 N. Milwaukee, 773-489-3160),
* Jazz: The Green Mill was once Al Capone's gangster hangout, with much of the original décor intact. It features some of the best-known jazz stars in town, as well as young up-and-comers. Booths and tables are at a premium on weekends when national acts perform. (4802 N Broadway; 773-878-5552). Or try Pops For Champagne, a narrow, high-ceilinged room with a huge fireplace, and a high stage behind a quarter-moon bar. Sightlines aren't a problem in this intimate room and the sound is impeccable. (2934 N Sheffield; 773-472-1000).

Nightclubs: If you like the nightlife, Chicago has plenty to offer. Just remember, most clubs have a dress code and cover is usually $20. The doorman is key to getting in, and tips can help you get around long waiting lines. Cabs are plentiful, and parking isn't, so taking a taxi to these places is your best bet. The Funky Buddha Lounge is a late-night lounge with dancing. The Ghost Bar, above Nine, is great sight seeing. Harry's Velvet Room is a comfortable, dark and very trendy. For champagne, try Narcisse. Or visit the Rush Street area, with great bars such as The Whiskey, sister of LA's Whiskey a Go-Go, The Park Tavern, Cru, Gibson's and Hugo's Frog Bar.

Food: Chicago dining is much more than deep-dish pizza and Chicago hot dogs. Every type of restaurant, from four star dining to ethnic specialties, is available. Below are just a few favorites. Reservations are important, particularly for Thursday through Saturday, so call ahead to ensure you get a table. Parking at most restaurants is limited, but some do have valet. Price symbols indicate how much diners can expect to spend for a meal (appetizer, main course, dessert, and coffee) without tax, tip or wine.

Food Ratings: Price Ratings:
* = Good ¢ = $10-20
** = Very Good $ = $20-30
*** = Excellent $$ = $30-40
**** = Superlative $$$ = $40-50
$$$$ = $50-plus per person

* Arun's-4156 N. Kedzie. Thai. The best and most rewarding Asian restaurant in the city, Arun's is outfitted with Thai art and craft works, provides a serene setting for chef-owner Arun Sampanthavivat's exquisitely crafted dishes. $85 fixed menu, served family style. 773-539-1909. ***, $$$$
* Ben Pao-52 W. Illinois. Chinese/Pan Asian. Graceful River North room with Zen-inspired red and black décor. Among enjoyable openers are offerings from the satay bar (try scallops or Portobello mushrooms), sesame-encrusted tofu with garlic sauce, Shanghai noodles in spicy peanut sauce, and delicate steamed dumplings. Good entrées are spicy Hong Kong eggplant, green curry chicken, and featured fish selections such as snapper in garlic scallion sauce. Well-versed service. 312-222-1888. *1/2, $
* BIN 36-339 N. Dearborn. American. Marina City destination with a casual wine bar and snazzy dining room. Chef Bernard Laskowski's internationally inspired dishes are complemented by an ample wine selection-with many recommendations for pairings on the menu. For appetizers, thyme-roasted sea scallops with sweet corn risotto, mussels steamed in cilantro-scented broth, or foie gras with blueberry compote and toasted brioche. Move on to spit-roasted pork loin with braised napa (cabbage) and a butternut squash fondant; pancetta-wrapped salmon with littleneck clams in saffron lobster broth. Sharp servers. Five-course tasting menu averages $55; $90 with wines. **, $$
* BlackBird-619 W. Randolph. Contemporary American. Chef Paul Kahan's French-based cutting edge contemporary cooking is fascinating; that must be why this sleek Market District hot spot continually packs in the smart set, despite a noisy, cramped setting. Pure and balanced flavors are showcased in seasonally changing dishes such as appetizers of slow-roasted suckling pig with curried corn sauce, corn crêpe, and onion salad. Excellent entrées recently have been grilled sturgeon with caramelized celery root, apples, and curried braised oxtail jus; and a brace of roasted bobwhite quail with sugar plums, baby turnips, and Serrano ham panisee (rolled in chickpea batter and fried). Many boutique wines. Generally polished service. **1/2, $$$
* Le Bouchon-1958 N. Damen. French. This picture-perfect lace-curtain bistro packs them in for a taste of Paris at penny-pinching prices. Snails in parsley butter, garlicky cod brandade, French onion soup, and salad lyonnaise are among the classic openers. Main courses range from steak frites to kidneys in mustard sauce. Fish fare reasonably well, but the shellfish in the bouillabaisse can disappoint. Long waits (even with reservations). Well-meaning service can be slow. 773-862-6600. *, $
* Café Absinthe-1954 W. North. French, eclectic. It's a little too dark and fairly noisy, but this hip Bucktown bistro has style in spades. Executive chef Jim Hoban's menu changes nightly, but he bats close to 1.000 most any night. Oysters with mango and tomato-jicama relishes were a hit among cold appetizers, seared sea scallops in a red curry broth among the hot. Exquisite vegetables and starches accompany entrées such as pancetta-wrapped venison loin, seared tuna wrapped in a spiced nut phyllo, and a torte of potatoes and wild mushrooms. On-the-ball service. Good selection of wines by the glass. 773-278-4488. *1/2, $$$
* Café Ba-Ba-Reeba! -2024 N. Halsted. Spanish. Bustling maze of fiesta-festive rooms plastered with folksy art dishes up a Disneyesque version of tapas-bar dining. The extensive menu spotlights paellas (for two or more), but stick to the small stuff. Start with garlicky potato salad, the plate of Serrano ham and sausages with manchego cheese and tomato-topped bread, and boquérones, marinated white anchovies atop roasted peppers. Hot tapas range from ratatouille-like pisto manchego to mini entrées, such as grilled sea bass with romesco sauce. Spanish wines, sherries, and other potables. Given the crowds, service is surprisingly good. 773-935-5000. *1/2, $
* Café Spiaggia-980 N. Michigan Ave. Italian. More casual and less expensive than big sister Spiaggia, this stylish café boasts Renaissance-inspired frescoes, grand city views, and lively versions of regional classics. Veal carpaccio rolled around a pâté of foie gras and black truffles is luxurious. Topnotch handmade pastas include spaghettini with whole Gulf spiny lobster with chile and Bolognese-style duck pappardelle. Fine main courses range from roasted salmon with wild mushrooms and white wine sauce to wood-roasted lamb chops and braised lamb shoulder in Chianti sauce. Well chosen wines by bottle or glass; big Spiaggia is available on request. Generally smooth service. 312-280-2755. **, $$
* Carlos'-429 Temple, Highland Park. Contemporary. Chef Ramiro Velasques is the keeper of the culinary standards set by Carlos and Debbie Nieto at their 18-year-old tiny temple of gastronomy. Dinner might begin with sublime black truffle risotto with shiitake mushrooms and baby spinach. Perfectly roasted pine nut-encrusted baby lamb rack comes with escarole and mint jus. Dégustation menu ($80, &110 with wines). Excellent wines by the glass on a world class list. Skillful, joyful service. ***1/2, $$$$
* Carlucci-6111 N. River Rd, Rosemont. Italian. The wry ceiling murals of cigar-smoking ancient Romans at banquet capture the noisy, sometimes manic, spirit at this handsome corporate watering hole near O'Hare. The kitchen's take on Northern Italian food is equally spirited, starting with thin-crust pizzas, such as a gem topped with grilled asparagus and zucchini with provolone and basil pesto. Mushroom lovers should not miss the outstanding homemade pappardelle (wide ribbon pasta) with porcini and white truffle oil, a true highlight of the menu. Fine, medium-priced wines, mostly Italian. Service ebbs and flows with the crowd. 847-518-0990. **, $$
* Charlie Trotter's-816 W. Armitage. Contemporary. Everything is poised, unhurried, and in focus in these elegant salons. Trotter's long procession of small lapidary-perfect dishes are innovative, often improvisational, yet always harmonious. The grand menu ($115) may offer complex sensations such as hamachi (Japanese yellowtail) and a Malpeque oyster perched on a tiny citrus and fennel salad bathed in a chilled fennel soup and dappled with osetra caviar and crème fraîche. Wood grilling reaches new peaks with smoky rabbit loin with herb-encrusted risotto and morel mushrooms in rabbit jus. Vegetable menu ($100). Meals last up to four hours. Book the kitchen table far ahead. ****, $$$$
* Le Colonial-937 N. Rush. Vietnamese. Sepia-toned photos of old Vietnam, large potted palms, and rotating ceiling fans create a French-colonial ambiance at this New York import. Appealing appetizers include rice-paper salad rolls stuffed with mint-scented shrimp, vermicelli, and lettuce. Crispy whole red snapper swathed in a sweet-tart sauce and ginger-marinated roast duck are signature entrées. Wines are selected to go with the food. Second-story lounge and terrace. Generally proficient service. 312-255-0088. *, $$
* Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop- American Southern. 5225 S. Harper, Harper Ct: Laid-back Hyde Park hangout. 825 Church, Evanston. Both of these cheerfully cluttered spots serve up flavor-filled Cajun classics and other low-country treats. Start off with spicy fried green tomatoes or breaded oysters with mild chili dipping sauce, and move on to country fried steak, catfish (fried or blackened), or the North Carolina pulled pork sandwich. Gumbo and jambalaya are available by the cup, as entrées, or in the "Southern Sampler," which also includes red beans and rice. Best bets among sides: black-eyed peas, greens and coleslaw. Pecan pie, peach cobbler, and fluffy bread pudding with whiskey sauce for dessert. Dixie beers plus wine. Friendly service. 773-363-4943 (and) 847-733-9030 respectively. *, ¢
* Le Francais-269 S. Milwaukee, Wheeling. French. The legendary kitchen is in good hands with new chef Don Yamauchi (best known for his work at Carlos' and Gordon). An early visit reveals that Yamauchi is taking the menu in a lighter but spicier direction Yamauchi inspired entrées have been an herb-encrusted rack of lamb with ratatouille and spicy tomato compote, and a slow baked salmon with a broccoli purée, mushrooms, and a brown butter caper emulsion. The Grand Marnier soufflé for two actually feeds four. Light-hearted but serious service. Expensive wine list a work in progress. (review pending), $$$$
* Frontera Grill-445 North Clark. Mexican. Casual and vivaciously appointed spot for earthy appetizers and hearty entrées, including wood-grilled meats and fish. The day's regional tamale suggestion is always a good bet, as are tostaditas topped with marlin seviche, tacos al carbon with six filling options, and rousingly tasty carne asade of smoky grilled rib-eye steak marinated in spicy red chile and served with black beans, fried plantains, and guacamole. Be early for chiles rellenos, or late to avoid waits. 312-661-1434. ***, $$
* Topolobampo-445 North Clark. Mexican. Comfortable semiformal setting for stunningly elegant plays on authentic Mexican flavors. Appetizers on the monthly changing menu might be spicy shrimp tacos with roasted tomato broth and pickled vegetables; butternut squash soup with guajillo chilies, smoked scallops, and homemade cream cheese.. For the main course, perhaps roasted veal loin in rustic borracha salsa (pasilla chilies, tequila, beer) with potato pave and braised chard; or roasted lobster in ancho chile-pumpkin cream with mushroom-and-chard-stuffed delicata squash. 312-661-1434. ****, $$$
* Gibson's Steakhouse. Steaks. Excellent prime beef and sides elevate these popular, clubby meat eater's bastions above most of the area's steak-house competition. Gargantuan steaks range from London broil ($21) to a double porterhouse ($63)-waiters promote sharing even the smaller ones. Massive veal and lamb chops, thick fish fillets, and spit-roasted chicken are other entrées. Lobster tails ($55-$125) may be overcooked and overpriced. Main courses come with soup or green salad, but consider starting with chopped chicken livers, fresh oysters, or crabmeat-avocado salad. Strawberry shortcake among several ice cream- or cake-based confections big enough for four. Huge eponymous Gibsons and other martinis. Wine list is strongest on champagne and American reds. Professional service. **, $$$
* Harvest on Huron.-217 W. Huron. Contemporary American. Chef Alan Sternweiler's fine rhythm in the kitchen matches the beat from the audiophile sound system in this art-filled nightspot. Amid chic surroundings that are as much hip nightclub as restaurant, diners enjoy a seasonally changing menu of global tastes. Gratifying appetizers range in complexity from spicy habanero-soy glazed rock shrimp on udon noodles with Asian-style vegetables to clams with spicy rémoulade sauce. Among choice main courses, roasted breast of guinea hen with guinea hen sausage and spaghetti squash. Well-chosen bottle list (250+); stellar selection of spirits available in half portions make the bar scene as appealing as the menu. Smooth service. **, $$
* Heat-1507 N. Sedgwick. Japanese. Sleek little Art Nouveau-meets-Zen hot spot specializes in live seafood from tanks under the sushi bar-whole fish, shellfish, or crustaceans that arrive at the table, beautifully cut and arranged, still twitching. Snapper, flounder, pompano, and eel can exceed $100, but for less than $10, you can sample such exotica as crayfish-like yabby from Australia. More customary sushi and sashimi also are impeccably fresh. Sit at the sushi bar for "omikase," the chef's choice. Almost two-dozen sakes; wines are carefully chosen to go with the food. Well-informed servers. 312-397-9818. **, $$$$
* India House-1521 W. Schaumburg, Schaumburg. Indian. The ten-page menu at this large, opulent space represents the diverse regional cuisines of India with dishes ranging from street fare to royal favorites. Topnotch starters include deep-fried logs of mashed potatoes, stuffed with and rolled in nuts, and a better-than-average combo platter with light-as-the-air vegetable pakoras (fritters) and moist and tender seekh kebabs. For a meal with proper variety, share jheenga Madras (shrimp in a coconut gravy); spicy lamb vindaloo; or tandoori chicken breast marinated in almond paste. Puffy naans and stuffed parathas (breads) are excellent. Uneven service. Lunch buffet daily. 847-895-5501. *, ¢
* Mirai Sushi-2020 W. Division. Japanese. Cosmopolitan Wicker Park spot with deep seats in gray plush banquettes and dark-wood tables for pristine sushi and other Japanese delicacies. Memorable nigiri-ushi might include fluke, amberjack, and sea spray-flavored sea urchin, as well as seasonal specials like Spanish mackerel. Maki highlights are squid tempura, yellowtail-scallion rolls, and vegetarian choices include hotate kakiage, and excellent tempura of sweet bay scallops and vegetables fused dramatically. The sake martinis are shaken tableside; good list of premium chilled sakes. Upstairs lounge for late weekend sushi binges. Engaging, helpful service. *1/2, $
* MK. The Restaurant-868 N. Franklin. Contemporary American. Captivating cooking is the rule at chef Michael Kornick's sleek and chic multilevel River North restaurant. His creations seamlessly incorporate many influences in dishes such as starters of sautéed sweetbreads with caramelized endive and sherry vinegar, or tuna tartare layered with celery rémoulade and accompanied by a bold mixture of chopped oil-cured olives, anchovies and capers. Equally tempting entrées: sautéed squab with truffled Madeira sauce and braised savoy cabbage; chicken roasted with herbes de Provence and served with Pommery mustard sauce; and filet mignon poached in consommé, topped with truffle cream, and served with frites. Save room for Mindy Segal's clever desserts. Generally fine service; extensive wine list. Five-course tasting menu. 312-482-9179. ***, $$$
* Morton's-The Steakhouse. Steaks. These corporate-clubby havens for huge prime steaks and potatoes the size of Idaho deliver the masculine goods to an appreciative audience of suits-locals and visitors alike. Meals begin with a tightly scripted account of the tableside display of plastic-wrapped raw meats, hefty live lobsters, daily fish choices, and vegetables-on-steroids. Portions are so big starters are unnecessary, but good choices are fresh lump crab cocktail and smoke salmon. The primo of the prime is the 48-oz double porterhouse. Tangy 20-oz strip steaks and double filets also beckon. Be early for excellent but limited prime rib and lobsters. Sides-broccoli with hollandaise, great hash browns-are for two. Appropriate wine list and picks by the glass. **, $$$$ Newberry Plaza, 1050 N. State: The original, the noisiest. 312-266-4820., 9525 W. Bryn Mawr, Rosemont: Near O'Hare. 847-678-5155.
* Naha-500 N. Clark. American-Mediterranean. Sophisticated space for the equally sophisticated Mediterranean-influenced American cooking of Carrie Nahabedian. Start with braised oxtails on gemelli noodles accompanied by baby Brussels sprouts, or vanilla-scented scallops on caramelized Belgian endive sparked by candied orange and mint. Delicious entrées have included roasted poussin (baby chicken) with apple-smoked bacon, parsnip purée, and butternut squash; intense mustard seed-glazed salmon with balsamic syrup and thyme, and caramelized onions. Excellent artisan cheeses and fine desserts. Some pacing problems; but good waiters keep you informed. Broadly priced wine list; many by the glass. 312-321-6242. **1/2, $$$
* Nine-440 W. Randolph. American. Sequestered below street level in a Daniel Burnham-designed building, Nine is expansive eye candy done in minimalist brown, tan and sandstone anchored by a granite caviar and Champagne bar. The hip crowd goes for the scene-and for sophisticated grazer-friendly appetizers augmented with quality steak and seafood entrées. Brasserie-style shellfish platters are winners, as are lobster salad with mushrooms and French green beans in lemon tarragon vinaigrette, and a trio of American caviars served atop egg salad and crème fraîche with potato pancakes. Besides big steaks and lobsters, best entrées are veal porterhouse and seared rare ahi tuna. 312-575-9900. *1/2, $$$
* NoMI-800 N. Michigan, Park Hyatt Chicago. Contemporary. A beautiful room complete with a seventh-story view of Water Tower Park and Lake Michigan makes a grand setting for chef Sandro Gamba's French-accented, globally influenced cuisine. Elegant starters may include foie gras confit with Sauternes gelée (wine aspic jelly) and pear jam; truffle pancake with braised chicken leg and spy apple salad; and fine daily offerings from the sushi bar. Stellar main courses have been veal chop with braised sweetbreads, salsify and truffled macaroni; perfectly roasted rack of lamb with garlic confit and French lamb tartine. (toasted baguette spread with a paste of puréed lamb brain, heart and liver). A 3,000-bottle of wine room is packed with treasures. Generally sharp service. **1/2, $$$$
* One SixtyBlue-160 N. Loomis (Randolph at Ogden). Contemporary. Chef Martial Noguier runs the kitchen and oozes charm out front in this understatedly elegant room. Start with fabulously delicate-and rich-gnocchi with rock shrimp, asparagus, and lobster-tarragon sauce or sautéed foie gras with caramelized baby turnips and semi-dried plums awash in Armagnac sauce. Worthy entrées have included an elegant seared salmon fillet crusted with asparagus slices in scallop mousse served with red wine reduction; roasted beef tenderloin in zinfandel sauce with Swiss chard ravioli, glazed shallots, and carrot purée. Astute wine list. Low-key, sophisticated service. 312-250-0303. ***, $$$$
* Pasteur-5525 N. Broadway. Vietnamese. Not your average neighborhood restaurant, Pasteur's elegant décor, accomplished cookery, and attention to detail make it a true dining destination. The kitchen uses top-quality ingredients, especially the beef found in many dishes such as bo luc lac (tender chunks marinated in red wine). Worthy starters include the traditional (spring rolls) and the non-traditional (stuffed Portobello mushrooms). The entrée selection doesn't overwhelm, but instead offers a few well-chosen noodle, seafood, chicken, beef, and vegetarian dishes. Professional management and service. *1/2, $$
* Red Light-820 W. Randolph. Pan-Asian. Chef Paul Wildermuth, with an assist from Thai juggernaut Arun Sampanthavivat, scores in this hypnotic lair. Many of the daring dishes on the constantly evolving menu are more focused than on prior visits. Appetizers enthrall: past possibilities have been an intricate lemongrass-scented sweet corn cream chowder, and veggie-friendly pea shoot and mushroom dumplings. Seafood entrées are strong-we hope the crispy wild sea bass with a dynamic sweet-sour Fresno chili lemon sauce returns to the menu. Five-course tasting menu $55 (vegetarian $45). House cocktails, six teas, smallish wine list. Generally good service. **, $$$
* Shaw's Crab House-21 E. Hubbard. Seafood. This stylish spot evokes a prewar Atlantic Coast seafood house, and its tentacles reach around the world for fresh seafood. That freshness comes through best in simpler preparations such as raw oysters, fried smelt, sautéed sea scallops, and grilled fish. Splurging crab lovers should try the combo of crab cake, chilled Dungeness crab, and warm king crab legs with drawn butter (market price). Good au gratin potatoes and creamed spinach. Wines listed by seafood affinity. Helpful service. Funkier adjoining Blue Crab Lounge offers raw-bar items plus a full menu with jazz or blues (Tues, Thurs, Sun). *1/2, $$
* Sushi Wabi-842 W. Randolph. Japanese. Minimalist beauty defines Sushi Wabi, from the delicate fish to the très cool black-clad wait staff. But don't go just to feast your eyes. Sushi Wabi is delicious as well. It's wise to tread lightly in the hot dishes and proceed directly to the divine sushi. Ultrafresh nigiri comes in generous bites, and among the drop-dead maki is the sweet futo roll with crab, omelet, spinach, and avocado. The soft-shell crab spider roll, with its creamy Japanese mayo and pepper vinegar sauce, is an exotic delight, as are the glazed unagi (eel) rolls. **, $
* Tallgrass-1006 S. State, Lockport. Contemporary. Tiny romantic gem for the imaginatively conceived, skillfully wrought, and beautifully presented dishes of master chef/owner Robert Burcenski and sous chef Laura White. Downstairs neo-Art Deco room and upstairs Victorian rooms are perfect settings for showing off fine crystal, silver and antiques. Seafood shines on the changing menu, as in appetizers of steamed mussels with delicate lemon risotto or a caramelized-sugar basket of sauéed lobster and scallops with exotic spices and fresh herbs. Opulent salads follow many stellar entrées, however, some dishes are very rich, so choose multiple courses carefully to save room for wonderful desserts. Service not up to the level of food and setting. ***, $$$$
* Tizi Melloul-531 N. Wells. Mediterranean. Moroccan copper-topped tables make an exciting setting for scintillating fare. Cooked with flair, the food shows influences from Spain to the Middle East. Skillet fire-roasted mussels with spicy harissa (garlic-chili sauce) butter makes a tantalizing opener, as does roasted beet and organic green salad with ricotta salata and sherry-pancetta vinaigrette. Flavor-packed main courses are whole trout roasted with pine nut-golden raisin couscous, Catalina fish and shellfish ragoùt with almond romesco sauce, and pomegranate-glazed rack of lamb with potato-fennel gratin. Five-course family style meal, $30 per person on traditional low seating. Exotic cocktails; intriguing, well-priced wine list. Low-key, helpful service. **, $$
* Tru-676 N. St Clair. Contemporary. In a luxurious white dining room blessed with flawless service, Rick Tramonto's and Gale Gand's flashy food artistry soars. Exciting dishes often arrive on playful objects: caviars on a glass staircase, a trio of fish tartars served on a mirror, Versace-design china cups of "cappuccino" soups (corn chowder with crab, smoked herring with caviar). Other offerings might include a three-layer Japanese bento box of petite salads. Entrées range from beef tenderloin over an artichoke gratin napoleon with marrow sauce to steamed halibut and halibut cheek with carrot chowder. Two-dozen rare cheeses and extraordinary desserts by Gand continue the whimsy with beauties like a "carpaccio" of roasted pineapple with coconut-cilantro dressing. Big list of wines, fine choices by glass or taste. Tableside preps of foie gras and duck add to the drama. Three-course menu $75; tasting menus including a vegetarian option ($75-$125). Meals can last four hours. No cell phones.****, $$$$
* Vong-6 W. Hubbard. Thai-French. Jean-Georges Vongerichten's sparkling French interpretations of Thai food are deftly executed in this elegantly understated sibling of a New York original. Begin with the black plate of five treats, including crab spring rolls, prawn satay, and crispy quail rubbed with Thai spices. For the main course, spiced venison loin with gingered mushrooms and taro-potato cake; or crusty halibut fillet with curried artichokes. The white plate dessert is yang to the opener's yin and several of the sweets-showcasing tropical fruits and fusion sauces-mimic the appetizers in their clever spring roll, satay, and sushi shapes. Seven-course tasting menu ($68). **1/2, $$$
* Yoshi's Café-3257 N. Halsted. Contemporary. Can't decide between Japanese, French and Mexican? Torn between going upscale and wearing jeans? Yoshi's is the joint for you, elegantly serving cuisine of all kinds in a diner-ish setting. Standouts on Yoshi Katsumura's hit-and-miss menu are a deliciously sweet tuna tartare on a zingy guacamole bed and a subtly scented grilled tofu and vegetables, not to mention a mustard-marinated oven-roasted sable. If the combo of teriyaki quail on a bed of mashed potatoes seems whimsical beyond reason-have faith: This sweet-smoky dish is starchilicious. Go French at dessert. Is this multi-culti menu slightly schizoid? Yes, but often delightfully so. *, $$
* Zinfandel-59 W. Grand. American. Regional American cooking is the focus in this art-filled spot where rotating special regional menus constantly bolster a creative regular menu. Succulent appetizers and salads include crusty crayfish cakes with remoulade sauce, or a maple-mustard dressed "crocodile tears" salad sporting arugula, Capriole goat cheese and black walnuts. Generally well-executed entrées are paired with enticing sides, such as wood-grilled strip steak and its delicious three-cheese scalloped potatoes; pecan-encrusted mahi-mahi is stoked with herbed rice pilaf and zingly grilled apple relish. Ordinarily polished service droops at peak hours. Worthy wines by glass, bottle or flight.*1/2, $$

Transportation: Getting around Chicago is easy. To get downtown from Joliet, the best bet is the Metra train, Rock Island District Line, departing from downtown Joliet. Check schedules at www.metrarail.com <http://www.metrarail.com>. It takes about an hour to get downtown, and you can buy tickets at the train station. Once downtown, flag a cab to your destination. The CTA is a great way to get around town. El trains and buses cover most of the city. Check www.transitchicago.com <http://www.transitchicago.com> for routes and schedules or call 312-836-7000. If you need a car service, contact Tony Offley, owner of Tony O's Limousine Service, at 312-720-7795.

For additional information on Chicago, visit www.chicago.com <http://www.chicago.com> or www.citysearch.com <http://www.citysearch.com>. Enjoy your trip to the Windy City!