Letters to the Editors

Week of August 19, 1996

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 17:33:04 -0400
From: AnExecAsst@aol.com
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com
Subject: Very Bad Water Leak

Dear Editor:

I am hoping you can help me out with a problem I have with my 1977 Camaro.
Whenever it rains and the car has to sit out in the rain, a very bad leak
develops.  I get water draining (not dripping) into the passenger side of the
car. I'm at my wits end trying to find out where the water is coming in from
and plugging the hole.  Someone suggested that my leak could be the result of
"drainage holes" being plugged.  I've never heard of these.  Do they exist?
 Where are they?  What function do they serve?  Can I do anything to clean
them?  I've had to rip up my carpet so the floorboards don't rust and would
like to get the interior of my car redone, but I'd like to get this leak
fixed first.  Mechanics I've asked about this either don't know what I'm
talking about or say it's a lost cause since the car is so old and no one
keeps cars that old anymore so why should I (BECAUSE, she's a good car
mechanically, that's why).

Can you please help me and shed any light on what I can do about this
problem. I would be forever grateful!

Sincerely,
Josie Smith
anexecasst@aol.com


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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 96 13:22:57 -700
From: Lyn Dennis 
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com

I'm from a small town in Southwestern Ontario, Canada. The name 
of the place I live is called Petrolia, because we are an oil
producing town. Petrolia is said to have been the first to have
a "gusher" even before Pensylvania. It is where Imperial Oil, 
otherwise known as ESSO, or EXXON got it's start. Many men, 
a hundred years ago, were sent all over the world to places 
like Egypt to help them establish drilling. I've got an oil pump
just outside of my back yard that is still working today. 
Petrolia is a great place to visit, and we have extensive 
roots in the oil and gas industry.>

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 15:54:20 -0700
From: gfowler@library.unt.edu
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com
Subject: got a question...

have a question.
If a person is buying a new car, how do you deal?
How much of a discount can you get with cash for a new car?
I have seen cars for $15,000 in the papers here in TX.
So, what could I work them down to without mentioning I am paying cash? 
If I tell them I have cash?
Any info. would help.
SOPHIA



Hello Sophia-

Thanks for asking this question(s).  The following advice may not be the
quick answer you are hoping for, but it will help you make a better deal
(there's just no quick fix, it's not as cut and dry as you might imagine).


>From my personal experience, paying 100% cash doesn't necessarily give you
any advantage when buying a new car or truck.  Here's what I mean: because
new car dealerships usually don't provide their own financing (there was a
time many years ago when they were more involved in doing so), but rely on
third parties, they get cash for the car regardless of the type of
transaction.  In fact, in certain instances, they get a commission back
from the financing organization for turning the "paper" over to them.  In
such circumstances, as you can see, the dealership would prefer a financed
deal because they can make more money on the sale.  Therefore, they can't
or won't give you the best deal just for paying cash.

On the otherhand.  If a person's credit is so bad that they can't get
financing, and cash is the only way to go, then the dealership (if they
want the business) will make the best deal possible (by "best deal", I mean
the best deal for them, not you).

In general, the best way to make a good deal is to be armed with
information, and the self-control to avoid making an irrational decision.
Many, if not most people buy cars on impulse, stimulated by the emotion.
New vehicles can be beautiful, sexy things; and the decision to buy a
particular one can defy all logic.  Yes, sometimes people with 3 kids and a
big dog buy two-seat sports cars.

You must also avoid all pressure placed on you by the sales staff.
Remember, their need to earn a living is just as strong as your desire to
buy a car.  So turn the pressure back on them to make a better deal.

On a sheet of paper, write down your specific requirements, i.e.; if you
have children, if you need to carry around bulky items, if you're a sports
fanatic and you want to lug around a sailboard or hang-glider.  Is fuel
economy important?  Do you need four doors for better accessibility?  Do
you need 4 wheel drive capabilities?

Once you have this list, check your budget, how much can you afford to
spend; both from a standpoint of available cash and how much you could also
pay monthly.

Begin window shopping, literally and figuratively.  Look at vehicles on the
web, in newspapers, on TV, and in showrooms.  See if anything catches your
eye and matches your requirements.  Check and read reliability reports.
Read unbiased reviews, speak to your friends and co-workers.  The Auto
Channel has reviews on many different vehicles, we may have one for the
type of car you're looking for.  Consumer Reports is always a good source
as well.

Once you have narrowed the choices down, you could consult The Auto
Channel's New Vehicle Price Guide.  Listed in this database you'll find the
suggested retail price and the price that the dealer pays the manufacturer
for the vehicle.  Now you have a feel for the range that the dealer will
work within.

At first blush, you'll think, if the dealer wants to charge $15,000, and he
pays $12,500, then he'll never go lower than $12,500 (his cost).  Most
times this is correct.  However, a few things can happen that affects this
logic. Firstly, as I mentioned above, if you're financing the car, the
dealer could get a commission from the financing company.  This might be
worth giving you the car at the price he pays.

But the other thing to consider is that almost all manufacturers offer
incentives to the dealer.  These incentives are typically offered on a
monthly basis and increase depending upon the number of vehicles sold
within the month.  This is why many people find that the best time to buy a
car is at the end of the month.  For example: if a dealership sells more
than 10 vehicles in a month, the manufacturer will pay $200 back to the
dealer per unit.  For more than 15 vehicles, maybe they pay $250 per unit
and so on.  As the dealership sells more vehicles during a month and they
realize that they can earn more incentives, they increase their efforts to
sell cars - usually by offering better deals to consumers.

Another way that a dealer makes money, sometimes far more than from the
purchase of the vehicle itself, is from options and add-ons.  Extended
warranties, undercoating, enhanced audio systems, etc., are all ways to
increase profitability.  Keep in mind that every day consumers buy option
and add-ons for several hundred or even thousands of dollars that costs the
dealer practically just pennies.  And unfortunately, sometimes these
add-ons don't work or improve the life expectancy of the vehicle.

So again, you see, even if a dealer sells a vehicle at "cost", he could be
making a great deal for himself.

Okay, now you're ready to make a deal.  You know the vehicles you want (you
should have more than one possibility in mind - this will give you better
bargaining power), you know the price the dealer pays for the vehicle, and
you've researched the effectiveness and necessity of the add-ons that the
dealer will tempt you with.  Go into more than one dealership and tell them
the price you are willing to pay for the vehicle.  If you live in a town
that only has one dealership of a particular manufacturer, then visit other
nearby towns.  To make your offer look serious, make out a purchase order.
If you will pay cash, indicate so.  If you will finance the deal, then show
them a copy of a pre-approved committment from your bank or credit union.
This will let them know that you might qualify for their financing which
would give them additional money, and sweeten the reason for accepting your
bid.

The remaining question is how much to offer the dealership over their cost.
Are they entitled to make a profit?  Of course they are.  You just don't
want to be gouged.  If you're buying some of the add-ons take into account
that they could be making anywhere from 50% profit to an astronomical 300
or 400% profit on the item(s), even if the item is of value.  Therefore, if
you buy something for $1,000 that you suspect they could make $500 on, then
make your bid on the vehicle lower.  What kind of items carry a large
mark-up?  Extended warranties, undercoatings, paint protectants, interior
protectants, etc.

If you've got great self-control, and the time to do it, be merciless - it
could be a month that they're getting a big incentive from the factory.  If
you can't find any dealer that will accept your bid, then you can always
increase it (or travel to more additional towns).  Remember, if in order to
save a lot of money you travel to a distant town, your local dealer of the
same manufacturer still has to honor the vehicle's warranty.  So you won't
be hurting yourself.

Lastly, if you have a vehicle to sell in order to buy a new one, then you
are better off selling it to a private party and using the cash for the new
purchase.  Trading one vehicle in towards the purchase of another almost
never works out well for the consumer.  You can get hurt on both sides.

I hope this long response wasn't too boring and it helps you make a wise
decision.  Please let me know the result of your experience.

Best regards,

Marc J. Rauch
Exec. Vice President
THE AUTO CHANNEL




Week of July 14, 1996

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Beard Reacts to Sakkis!


From: Michael Gilbert Beard 

 To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com

 Cc: beard@rconcepts.com

 Subject: Black Box article

 
 I wanted to write and let you know that I have placed a link to The Auto 
 Channel's drag racing section in The Staging Light's Drag Racing 
 Resources - News, Magazines, and Results section.  
 (http://rconcepts.com/beard/sl/resources/mags.html)  As I did, I read 
 some of your articles.  It was nice to see a simple explanation for 
 delay boxes for those unfamiliar with them in the Black Box Drag Racing 
 For All article by Tony Sakkis.  Although I normally stay out of the 
 delay box debate, I have some comments on the article.

 
 Sakkis states:  "Studies have shown that human beings can not change 
 their reaction times.  You can not say, 'Next time I'll wait an extra 
 2/100ths of a second before I leave.'  It's impossible."

 
 While the statement gets the point across to the general public, it is 
 not entirely true.  It is not impossible, but it is difficult, and does 
 take an immense amount of concentration.  Without the concentration, if 
 you try to 'back off the tree', most folks will miss it by .04 or more. 
  I have been able to minimize this over-reaction through years of 
 experience, and can often do just what Sakkis says is impossible.  True, 
 I am not changing my reaction time, but rather to what stimulus I am 
 reacting.  There is a subtle different way of looking at the tree that 
 changes how your mind reacts to it - something I'm not certain can be 
 taught, but it can be learned.

 
 Furthermore, even if it were true that you couldn't adjust yourself in 
 this way, tires play a very important role in your car's rollout (time 
 it takes to leave the starting line), and thus your reaction times.  You 
 can adjust your reaction times by adjusting the air pressure in your 
 front tires, and in a desperate case, your slicks.  (I'll only provide 
 this explanation upon request so I don't take up more of your time than 
 I already am!)

 
 How do I back up my statements?  With proof, straight from the 
 dragstrip, and stacks of timeslips.  I have been racing for six years 
 now, ever since I got my driver's license  (I am now 22).  Each year is 
 a new learning experience, and the average r/t's show tell the tale:  
 1994:  .526, 1995: .529, and I am currently holding a .523 average this 
 season, all off the footbrake and zero electronics.  Put me on the 
 practice tree, and I'll show you a .5-oh or low .5-teen average off the 
 bottom bulb.  More proof?  I won the 1994 NHRA Division 1 Heavy ET 
 Championship, finished 2nd at the local track by only one round last 
 year, and I currently lead the Heavy ET points at the same track.

 
 Thanks for listening!  Take care,

 
 -- 
 Michael Beard                           - beard@rconcepts.com

 Webmaster, Revolutionary Concepts, Inc. - http://rconcepts.com/

 The Staging Light, drag racing central  - http://rconcepts.com/beard/

 DragNet list website            - http://rconcepts.com/beard/dragnet/

   -=* 1994 NHRA Div. 1 Heavy ET Champion & ET Driver of the Year *=-


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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 18:01:16 -0400
From: Larry Phillips 
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com
Subject: Bertone X/19

I have a 1983 Bertone X/19 (formerly Fiat X/19) and am trying to find a
source of parts, service, manuals, etc.  Do you have any suggestions or
ideas?
Thanks!

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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 15:35:36 -0400
From: Sepo 
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com
Subject: LS-6/M-22 identification

Dear Sirs:

	I hope you can help me out. I am thinking of trading my 1970 
Nova SS (an original L-78 402/375 with #'s matching engine) for a 1970 
Chevelle SS. The car was originally a L-34 402/350, but now sports an 
LS-6 crate motor(supposedly purchased in the '80's). It has the 
rectangular port heads and closed chamber 
design heads (casting #3964291). I am concerned about identifying the 
block and confirming that it does have the M-22 "rock-crusher" 4-speed.
	I know how to identify an original LS-6, but what about these 
crate motors. How can I verify their identity, beyond inspecting the 
area above the oil filter for the holes tapped for an external oil
cooler (to identify it as a 4 bolt main motor)?
	What about the M-22? I know to look for the letter "C" in one of 
the codes (A=M-20; B=M-21), but are there more ways without opening the
side cover?
	I really need your help. I am supposed to inspect the car this
week and I have to get my facts in order!
	PLEASE HELP ME! I look forward to hearing from you soon. If you 
can not help me, could you steer me towards someone who could?!?

Best Regards

Steve Sepowski

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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 02:17:48 -0400
From: parsec@netside.com
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com
Subject: Additives for Fuels and Lubricants

Has anyone, to your knowledge, ever designed objective testing, and 
tested independently, any fuel and/or lubricant additive which may be 
currently on the market?  If so, can you advise who, what, when, where 
and how I may obtain a copy of same?

Many thanks,
Smith, parsec@netside.com

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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 08:24:03 -0700
From: Mark Esslinger 
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com
Subject: recalls of the 70's

I need a list of the major automobile recalls of the 70's.  Where can I 
obtain such a list.  Any help would be appreciated.

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Week of June 24, 1996
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From: Arnold May 
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com
Subject: Oil in the water but no water in the oil!

Dear Sir:

	I am writing this after many frustrating hours and much dollars 
spent trying to solve a problem.

	I have a 1990 Toyota 4-Runner with approx. 100,000 miles on it.
Recently, after the truck overheated, I discovered what can best be 
described as a thick chocolate milkshake in the radiator. It had entirely 
clogged the system throughout. Suspecting a head gasket, and having tried 
to flush the system, we proceeded with removing the heads for closer 
exemination. Gaskets A-OK and tested fine. Heads pressure tested A-OK and 
were absolutely flat. Thinking (hoping?) it wasn't the block but merely a 
head which wasn't torqued properly, the engine was re-assembled. We had 
the radiator steamed/flushed and flushed the entire system a number of 
times. The situation continues however. The water temperature remains 
constant and OK. There is no sign of water in any other fluids but there 
is continual surfacing of this brown 'gunk' in the rad. I have had the 
truck for 2 years now and never added anything to the rad aside from 
proper coolant.

	Any suggestions?

	Also, last flush, I looked in the radiator and picked out through 
the opening what appears to be a small piece of soft rubber. It looks 
like a crescent piece of quarter sized-ring or gasket.

	I appreciate any ideas or input you may provide on this.

	Thanks - Arnold May

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From: Milton D. Hermann 
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com
Subject: Print Problem

I tried to print out your page on In Perspective, The 12 hours of Sebring. The 
program does not print out completely. It misses most of the first paragraph. 
and further down the line it misses more . Try it yourself and see what it 
does. I tried it at two different times and it did the same thing....Just 
thought you would like to know....mhermann@earthlink.net

(By hitting your ESCape button, the animation will cease,
        and your printer should do just fine.  Ed.)

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From: Vince McGowan 
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com
Subject: shift kits

my son recently (1 month ago) purchased a 81 monto carlo which has been 
modified 350 engine performance cam holly 650 double pumper carb headers 
etc. He drove it for a week and the bellhousing broke cracked around the 
circumference about 5" from the motor. Around here there is a big 
discussion about the shift kit in the tranny (2200 stall convertor) some 
say it caused the problem and others say with a mod engine it is needed 
to keep the tranny in good shape. What's the real story?

-- 
TTYL
Vince

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Week of June 17, 1996
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From: Matt Wolf  (Sale_660@access.ohio.gov)
To: Editor-in-Chief@theautochannel.com
Subject: Nice Car!!!

The Dodge Avenger is the greatest car that i have ever seen!! 


                         -the duke of havoc

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From: Marjorie L. Rice (mava56ri@ix.netcom.com)
To: eichief@theautochannel.com
Subject: question

Thanks in advance for responding.  We are interested in obtaining 
information on the Willys Aero Series, from years 1952 to 1954.  Would 
like to locate possibly a Willys Falcon, either restored, or in need of 
restoration.  We are pretty much new to this, and would appreciate any 
directions you can give in our search.  

Jack and Marge Rice (PQCJ72A@prodigy.com) 

( OK, folks, can anyone help?   - Editor )

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