So you wanna buy an English sports car, eh? Well, we think we can help-perhaps Triumph's TR4 would fit the bill. Even a $3000 beater can be used as a daily driver with proper maintenance, the parts are cheap and easy to find, and just about any mechanic, amateur or otherwise, with a shop manual and enough brains to know which end of the wrench to hammer with can work on one.
On to the meat and potatoes: The TR4 was a top-notch SCCA club racer in its day, but more for its 2.2-liter engine than its handling. Basically, this was an antiquated TR3 (albeit with rack and pinion steering) under the skin until 1965, when the TR4A brought a new frame and optional independent rear suspension. The IRS sounds like a good idea (and brings a little extra cash), but it's fussy to repair and few drivers can tell the difference anyway. A TR4A with the live axle is probably your best bet.
Since parts for these cars are still pretty cheap, pay the most attention to the body and (separate) chassis. Everything else can be repaired or replaced, but if you've got rusty rockers or suspension mounts there's no way to come out ahead. Put the car on a lift and make sure the chassis isn't bent or eaten away; inspect the floors, rockers, and inner wheelwells for rot; and carefully check the suspension and spring areas for rust.
Hydraulics were never Triumph's strong suit, so if any master or slave cylinders are bad count on replacing them-rebuilding just gives you a crummy unit that happens to work again temporarily. Similarly, modern replacement parts for the TR's electrical system are miles ahead of the originals, so toss any busted bits and start over.
Check for excessive play in the steering and front end, and remember that replacing bad English shocks can be costly. Still, aside from a complete tranny or engine rebuild, there's little that a shade-tree mechanic can't handle here. The TR4 came with SU and Stromberg carbs; go for the more durable (but still fiddly) SUs if you can.
TR4s usually come in original, stock condition. Go-fast parts do exist, but if speed is your goal you're just looking at the wrong machine. While peppy in a straight line, cruising is more the TR's forte.
Last but not least, once a sound, rust-free TR4 has been properly sorted and fettled (i.e., you've broken and replaced all the 30-year-old electrics and hydraulics), regular maintenance and tuning can make for a surprisingly reliable driver. Their reputation notwithstanding, pre-TR5 (TR250 in the US) Triumphs were pretty well-built cars.
TR4s run the gamut from $2500 for a tatty driver to $12-15,000 for a show winner. Strong, presentable drivers can be found for $4-8000, with rustfree cars naturally being cheapest in California. Rarer models such as the TR4A-IRS cost more, of course, and don't forget the neat targa-type Surrey top option. Factory examples of the Surrey are rare, so expect to pay extra. Also quite desirable is overdrive, which usually appears in concert with the sexy wire-wheel option and markedly improves the highway experience.
In typical British fashion, a fright-pig TR will bleed you dry in weeks while a solid, well-maintained example can be a troublefree pleasure. One interviewee who drives his beater TR4 about 100 miles a day spent less than $300 on maintenance last year. A lot of used cars that are considerably more boring couldn't match that.-Doug Lloyd
TRIUMPH TR4 (1961-1967)