Peter Brock takes a week off and explores the wonders of gallic Vintage racing from Paris to Southern France
It had been 33 years since Carroll Shelby's highly outgunned expeditionary force of 1964 was forced to run against the might of Enzo Ferrari's factory-supported team of GTOs. The battleground was the Tour de France, a weeklong combination of high-speed runs over public roads to a variety of hillclimbs and sprint races on the fastest racing circuits in France.
Today the Ford/Ferrari wars are still being fought across the rolling green hills of France, no less enthusiastically but in a far more genteel manner. The modern Tour de France, like its recreated Italian counterpart the Mille Miglia, is contested over several days and uses much the same format as the original Tour; special competition events each day at several points along a pre-determined route. However, the teams now stop each night at some unusual or beautiful location to savor the fine wines, food and atmosphere of the particular region through which they are racing. Even competitors are friends and the ambiance is warm and adventurous.
Competing cars are limited to those of the tour's original era of 1951 to 1972 and are divided among two main categories, Competition and Regularity. Of this year's 220 entries, 77 would fall into the Competition Class, defined as serious competitors who have come to race their expertly-prepared VHC (Historic Competition Vehicles) Sports/Racers and Gran Turismos to win overall honors. The Regularity racers are a varied lot, some as serious as the VHC racers, but for most it is an elegant excuse to run their prize possessions against their friends on circuits most of us only dream about. Of course the chance to drive flat out on public roads for three days is appealing too!
To prevent complete domination of this modern Tour by professional drivers and factory-supported teams, the VHC competition class is limited to a single, ranked, FIA competition driver and one gentleman driver of supposedly lesser capabilities. Since top pilots of earlier eras are not ranked in the current standings, it is not unusual to see several world class drivers from the past competing on the Tour.
Phil Hill and son Derek were driving together this year for the first time in a glorious red 275 GTB Ferrari loaned by Brandon Wang of London. Brandon and his very rapid co-driver and mechanic Gary Pearson of England were running Brandon's pristine 250LM, an ex-factory team car once raced by Pedro Rodriguez. Stirling Moss and wife Suzie had brought their newly-refurbished Zagato-bodied Alfa Romeo 1750 GTZ to run under the ATS colors of Paris-based Robert Sarrailh. There were literally dozens of well-known European drivers and important and historic cars of all types. The sights and sounds of the early morning start in Paris alone would be worth the trip.
If points were given for style, the Tour de France would win hands down. Imagine a field of cars that would create a world class Concours d'Elegance and place the start of such an event at the Jardin du Trocadero in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. It's spring and all of Paris is green. The Trocadero is a park of grand fountains, wide marble staircases and beautiful terraces, surrounded by a circular drive that has the organizer's tents and pre-numbered spots for all the competitors. Starting Wednesday, the cars and crews arrive all afternoon, a dazzling display of automotive history in a setting of such splendor that one feels compelled to call France the center of the civilized world.
There are entries from 22 countries and the babble of different languages is as fascinating as the automobiles, more great competition cars of the grand eras than one might see in a full season of vintage racing. There are literally Ferraris by the score and a slew of flat-six competition Porsches, including 904s, 906s, 910s and Carreras. Traditional English sports cars, with representative Healeys, MGs and Triumphs fill in the gaps. And we can't forget the Fords! Cobras, Mustangs, GT40s and GT 350s from all over Europe-big booming V8s that stop even the blasé Parisians dead in their tracks when they are fired up at registration.
Sarrailh, known as the mad Basque of Paris, has brought several cars from his prestigious ATS stable and has entered Henri Pescarolo in the team's 289 competition Cobra roadster, an FIA-legal racer and one of the fastest cars in all of European vintage racing. Pescarolo's bald pate is as familiar an icon in France as is Moss' in England. The quiet bearded Frenchman has competed at Le Mans 31 times and knows the backroads of France as well as he knows the eight miles of the Circuit de la Sarthe.
With all registration handled at the Parc Ferme in the Jardin du Trocadero on Wednesday, the tour is scheduled to begin at 9:00 am on Thursday morning. The cars are flagged off with great ceremony and television coverage at ten-second intervals and are headed for the historic but crumbling high-banked circuit at Montlhéry, some five kilometers outside of Paris.
The competition category cars leave first and it is soon apparent why the early numbers are so desired-the lead racers have full gendarme escort and race through the gathering early morning traffic without heed to stoplights or civilian intrusion. The legendary Paris traffic is reduced to a static civilian morass as the suave light blue-coated BMW-mounted moto/gendarmes paralyze its movement with an imperious wave of their white-gloved hands.
The unmuffled racers roar westward through the boulevards of Paris as impassive bathrobed and hair-curlered housewives stand on their balconies above it all watching the insanity below. The lead cars disappear as quickly as they arrive at each roundabout and all is normal for about half an hour.
Then the Regularity racers attempt to run the gauntlet and the scene is repeated, but this time without the benefit of the gendarmes. Since the Regularity Class has a later departure, it is forced to cope with the full bloom of morning rush hour on its own in a scene that can only be described as French.
The aging circuit at Montlhéry has been modified to prevent excessive speeds on portions of the high banks which have settled into car-breaking sections that are impossible to negotiate. The French government does not have enough money to renovate the historic site and it is too expensive and beautiful to tear down so only the safe portions are used for occasional club events. At Montlhéry, just 15 minutes of practice is allowed before the first cars are gridded and flagged off for a ten-lap sprint. Henri Pescarlo leads but then spins mid-race when challenged by Gary Pearson in Wang's 250. Still, Pescarlo recovers to make 7th. Pearson in the LM wins the event followed by a Porsche 910 and another Cobra, and then it's time for lunch.
This may be a racing circuit with literally hundreds of racers, crew and officials but it's also France after all, where fine food, wine, and time to enjoy them are a tradition. An immense white tent houses long linen-covered tables with a fine buffet of salads, baguettes, a dozen types of paté and cold chicken, and of course a choice of wines. Outside, a traditionally-attired chef animatedly directs a large barbecue crew, who carefully sear acres of sausage and beef to perfection.
The Competition Category cars and crew are just finishing their meals as the Regularity cars begin to arrive and then race in three separate timed events. By the time the first wave of Regularity cars have finished their event, the serious racers are already on the road headed south to the first special stage at Chevenelles. At Montlhéry the Regularity competitors continue to enjoy the afternoon sunshine, the food, the cars, and the companionship of racing. Eventually, they too make their way to the portable arched starting ramp, wait for their signal, then head south toward Pleumartin, the gathering point for the next competition at Chevenelles.
As the Instructions de Course note, "after the Chambourd control point you will find a car park lining a restaurant at Pleumartin where you will be able to have a drink facing the castle." All very French and civilized. It's been a six-hour run from Montlhéry, so the gathering in the park at Pleumartin is the official's way of reorganizing the competitors for the next event.
The first Special Stage at Chevenelles is a three-kilometer run on nicely-paved but very narrow country lanes, about a car and a half wide. Imagine what it might be like running up your average suburban American driveway at 100+ mph and you get a feel for a Tour's special stage. Here you can readily appreciate the design of the small, nimble sports cars of the '50s and '60s.
Most of the racers make the run in dying afternoon light so many of the townspeople, headed home from work, turn out for the event. Farther out of town, farmers and their children hang on fences or sit in trees to watch the cars. But the real challenge is for the regularity teams, who run at night. Now, keep in mind what I said earlier about hillclimbs and driveways and you begin to realize the importance of good corner lighting! If you've ever wondered about those photos of European rallye cars with all those lights hanging off the front end, you now know why.
Later that evening, we bed down in a modern suburb of Poitiers called Futuroscope-as intriguing an architectural landscape as I've ever seen-but there's no time to explore. Besides, it's time to eat again! With the departé at 7 am, lights go out early. Racers will next head for the circuit at Val de Vienne.
Most Americans have never heard of this beautiful circuit near Le Vigeant because no international racing takes place here. It's a modern club circuit with permanent F1-style lockable garages behind the pits and a huge paddock area.
Like Montlhéry, the competition at Val de Vienne is run in groups of about 35 cars, and the serious racers are long gone to a sit-down linen and crystal lunch at the Chateau de Brie, a castle built around 1500, when the touring cars start their sessions.
At Bordeaux it is learned that Derek Hill has had an "off" at the Pont du Dognon special stage in the 275GTB. Later that evening the Hills arrive and relate their adventure. Phil has had an extremely difficult time as navigator. "I never rode with anybody in the tour back in the seventies," he says, "and now I know why. It's terrifying! Derek has done an absolutely outstanding job but the car is losing its brakes and there's no way to slow it except pitch it sideways." Phil points to the smashed nose of the Ferrari. "Look at that; if we'd had brakes Derek would be challenging for the lead-damn! It's great fun to run the Tour with my son. I never had much of a chance to be with him as he was growing up, and now we can do this together, it's beautiful!"
Albi is another of those delightful club circuits in the south of France that are all but unknown to most Americans. It's a permanent circuit that's considered 'club' in Europe but by American standards would qualify as a major track, with covered pits, grandstands, and a tiny village of restaurants, accessory shops and boutiques. Albi isn't too technical a circuit, but it's fast and lots of fun. Again, Pearson in Wang's 250LM outdistances Pescarolo in the Cobra to lead the race, but the next several positions are fought right down to the wire.
The last portion of the second day's drive follows a southerly direction to the walled city of Carcasonne. Construction on this fabled city started in the ninth century and lasted all the way up through the crusades. It is the largest fortress in Europe, ringed by double walls and towers that made it impregnable until the age of modern warfare. Small tourist shops now line the narrow cobbled streets and several small but elegant hotels have been integrated into the original structures, but it still has its charm.
The Parc Fermé at Carcasonne is just outside the wall of the fortress and the contrast of beautiful cars against the backdrop of the ancient city as night falls is truly beautiful. Even with dinner scheduled for eight o'clock, it is difficult to not have the time to explore this one-of-a-kind city and climb the towers and ramparts to feel what life must have been like several hundred years ago.
We depart Carcasonne at dawn headed for Nogaro. Pescarlo in the ATS Cobra has closed to within seconds of the Wang 250 LM for overall honors, and the last race could be a re-enactment of the Cobra/ Ferrari war of '64. Unfortunately Pearson loses his ring and pinion on the second lap and Pescarlo wins at Nogaro. Hugenholtz, in his Shelby GT 350, had lost the U-bolts holding the rear axle in place but he has now miraculously appeared again with the car repaired. Now, though, the clutch linkage is gone and the Dutch driver is starting and stopping on the key and shifting sans clutch.
Although Pescarolo is clearly the fastest-lapping car at Nogaro, corner times prove that Ray Bellem in the Lotus Elan is quickest, and of the real vintage cars on the tour, it's Derek Hill in the 275 GTB. Young Hill was really enjoying himself as he used his father's advice and full power with oversteer correction to come screaming out of the left-hander at the end of Nogaro's long straight. Watching and listening to a vintage Ferrari V12 being driven to its limit is simply wonderful. Pescarlo takes the checker and it's only a formality until he is officially announced that evening as the winner in the Atlantic coastal resort of Biarritz.
Closing festivities in Biarritz are truly memorable. The Parc Fermé is filled with stories, champagne, and some cars that show considerable wear. Plans are already being made for next year's Tour which includes a new route to the Riviera.
Shelby would have really enjoyed the evening's trophy presentation. Pescarolo's Cobra won first overall and Ford V8s took five of the first six positions.
Proving once again that history always repeats itself.
There are entries from 22 countries and the babble of different languages is as fascinating as the automobiles, more great competition cars of the grand eras than one might see in a full season of vintage racing. There are literally Ferraris by the score and a slew of flat-six competition Porsches, including 904s, 906s, 910s and Carreras. Traditional English sports cars, with representative Healeys, MGs and Triumphs fill in the gaps. And we can't forget the Fords! Cobras, Mustangs, GT40s and GT 350s from all over Europe-big booming V8s that stop even the blasé Parisians dead in their tracks when they are fired up at registration. 
The aging circuit at Montlhéry has been modified to prevent excessive speeds on portions of the high banks which have settled into car-breaking sections that are impossible to negotiate. The French government does not have enough money to renovate the historic site and it is too expensive and beautiful to tear down so only the safe portions are used for occasional club events. At Montlhéry, just 15 minutes of practice is allowed before the first cars are gridded and flagged off for a ten-lap sprint. Henri Pescarlo leads but then spins mid-race when challenged by Gary Pearson in Wang's 250. Still, Pescarlo recovers to make 7th. Pearson in the LM wins the event followed by a Porsche 910 and another Cobra, and then it's time for lunch. 