The Volkswagen GTI was a milestone. Quick, punchy, and large enough for four (with luggage) to travel in comfort, it ushered in a new era of performance hatchbacks, known affectionately as "hot-hatches." If well maintained and not beat upon 24-7, a second-generation GTI will run well, even racking up 150,000 miles.
Now the brussels sprouts. The Pennsylvania factory did not know the meaning of quality control. Early cars rattled like crazy, and were doomed with annoying little problems. Once production shifted to Germany and Mexico, build quality improved greatly, but don't expect these examples to last much beyond 150-200,000 miles without a few problems.
Properly maintained, GTIs are troublefree, but there are certain things that a prospective buyer should examine carefully. Every mechanic we interviewed mentioned the big R, rust. These cars can rust anywhere there is exposed metal, and rust only gets worse. The other big problem is leakage. Notorious spots for leaks are at the windshield, and at the roof gutter molding, particularly at the rear of the driver's door where it joins with the door seal, leaking directly into the car. Inspect it from below with the door open. If a windshield leak has not been dealt with, it can cause major electrical problems. Pull the relay board and fuse panels and check for corrosion.
If a GTI has over 100,000 miles, expect to do a transmission rebuild soon. Also, the car's transfer fuel pump in the gas tank is prone to failure, but it will not be noticed until it causes the main fuel pump to fail. If only the regular pump has been fixed, it will fail again within a few months. Make sure the two pumps have been replaced together.
Like any specialty car, the GTI has some parts that are surprisingly expensive to repair/replace. Headlights are next to impossible to find used, but available from dealers for $130-150. This is because the entire assembly needs to be replaced, not just the bulb. Also, a small gear in the odometer can fail, but won't affect the speedometer. If the trip computer stays at zero, have a shop rebuild it. If you need to get new parts, grab your wallet, big time.
Many GTIs have been modified for higher performance. If this is the case, check the front strut towers. There's a good chance they have been stressed or bent. If you plan on performance modifications on '88-andlater 8-valvers, the digifant fuel injection system is extremely complicated. Other modifications can be done fairly easily, and there are reams of literature and experts aplenty. GTIs are friendly to amateur mechanics.
Eight-valve GTIs are the most dependable, with the 16-valve engines (introduced in 1987) offering better performance but more expensive maintenance. The first 16valve models aren't a great deal, because they came with the standard 1.8-liter engine. Hold out for one of the '90-92 2-liter models. Then the performance really shines.
Expect prices to vary significantly. A high-mileage 1985 can be as low as $1500, while a 1992 16-valve in pristine condition can reach $15,000, although deals can be found. Expect to pay in the $3000-$6000 range for a car in good condition.
If you're looking at a pre- 1990 16-valver, try an 8-valver at the same time. You may find the 8-valver perfectly adequate. It probably hasn't been run quite as hard as the 16, and the insurance premiums are lower. Best of all, simple performance mods can make it blow away the 16.
