Automania

TOWING TIPS

by Tom Hagin

My friends sometimes wonder where I get my story ideas. And since I write mainly about the activities in which I participate, the answer is clear: through experience.

Last summer was certainly no exception.

We spent the weekend on one of our mountain lakes, roughly two hours from home. Somewhere in the back of my mind I knew that the long pull uphill would be strenuous for my venerable tow vehicle and for my equally ancient trailer, but I went anyway.

But not after spending some time checking certain components of the trailer that would bear the brunt of the work, mainly the wheel bearings and load carriers.

I performed the annual repacking of the wheel bearings, making sure to use only marine-grade grease and cleaning them with denatured alcohol. (Regular petroleum-based solvents adhere to the bearing's surfaces and will attack the new grease quickly.) A visual inspection of the bearings and machined surfaces of each spindle and hub showed no pits or corrosion, so that messy job was finished fast.

Next up was tire condition, which is easy because all it takes is a quick look to see if the sidewalls were cracked, treads intact and tire pressures were at the recommended levels as printed on the sidewalls. Too little pressure can cause excessive heat and premature tire wear, while uneven inflation can cause trailer sway.

Many novice tow captains overlook the trailer hitch - the "life-link" between the tow rig and what's being towed. Receiver-style Class III (suitable for most ski craft) hitch platforms work best since the removable hitch shank can be bought with the correct drop (or raise) for the heights of the vehicle, boat and trailer. A level craft tows best. The correct ball size is imperative, so it's important to read the size stamped into the top of the ball, and into the top of the trailer's hitch area. Using a too-small ball can lead to a disaster.

There should be two safety chains long enough to criss-cross each other and to reach the holes provided in the hitch platform. If the trailer drops, crossed chains will allow you to maintain control while stopping.

I saw a fiberglass casualty beside the road recently, and as I slowly drove by I overheard the stunned tow vehicle operator telling police..."and the next thing I knew, the boat was passing ME!"

Many boat trailers, especially trailers designed to haul craft over 2000 pounds, have brakes. These low maintenance, surge-type binders use forward inertia from the trailer to activate the braking system. This shortens stopping distances drastically, and helps maintain control during panic stops, but only as a last resort. Increasing the distance between you and the guy in front is the safest way to go.

Using a lower gear on long downhills will not only reduce the chance of brake fade, but will avoid premature wear on the brake pads on both the trailer and the tow vehicle. Besides, heavy braking, especially on downhill grades, can cause the trailer to sway uncontrollably, a frightening experience.

Most boating excursions involve lots of gear, which, if being transported inside the boat, should be loaded evenly, with heavy items placed atop the trailer's axles. Likewise for the tow rig. Most have GCWR (gross combined weight ratings) printed in the owner's manual. Don't exceed this rating, which includes the weight of the tow vehicle, trailer, passengers and cargo. Check this well in advance.

While pulling, be courteous of others who may be waiting for a spot to pass. Your setup may creep along an uphill grade, so use pullouts wide enough for your rig, to allow faster traffic to pass.

The long pull home may take some extra time. Fun and sun takes a toll on pilots who may be in charge of towing duties as well. Reserve some energy and take some extra time to get home - it's safer that way.