Texas Cultural Tour, Pt. 3 - Houston
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A Mega-cultural Metropolis on Billionaires Bayou
After just a few business trips, describing Houston in a few words is difficult. The typical trip involves driving or being driven from one of the two airports to the hotel, visiting clients and having dinner, then out the next morning. View through the windshield only.
When the trip is more relaxed and leisurely it's different, much different. One is impressed by the phenomenal growth, the diverse population, the construction of bigger and better business, shopping and residential developments. But the foregoing is complicated by driving on a clogged expressways system that rivals LA's freeways – both in need of a plan – any plan!
The plan that is working however is the number of cultural institutions and venues: It’s is dazzling, simply dazzling. There is a ‘museum district’ that contains eighteen different cultural sites, but it make certain there’s a TomTom, Garmin or in-car navigation system to help you find the way … Houston can be very confusing. A car is a necessity in Houston not a luxury.
There’s a lingering rivalry between Houston and Dallas as to which city has the best “just pick a category” of lifestyle, sports, education, culture and food. It’s the latter that has become an obsessive compulsion with Houstonians: this makes New York’s foodies seem like rank amateurs. When in town it’s a good idea to check colleagues and friends to get the name the new hot restaurants. Be sure to eat at the Breakfast Klub in downtown Houston – true breakfast soul food that’s really good and unique. House specialties include katfish and grits with eggs and biscuits and six fried chicken wings with waffles topped with strawberries. You’ll stand in-line, but it’s worth the wait. 3711 Travis Street, (713) 528-8561, www.beakfastklub.com
Where to stay?
 Hotel Granduca |
 Monet from HMFA |
HOUSTON’S MUSEUM DISTRICT
There are eighteen different museums, galleries, gardens and cultural venues in a fairly distinct area of Houston (time did not permit a visit to all, just those detailed below), and a visit to the district’s website will provide information on each of the institutions. http://www.houstonmuseumdistrict.org/default.asp?id=168
 HMFA Gallery |
Museum of Fine Arts, Houston**
The name is not representative of the Texas-size cultural complex with two museum buildings, two art schools, two
decorative arts centers and, just for good measure, a sculpture garden. There
are 19 different galleries devoted to outstanding collections paintings,
photography, fabrics, costumes and object de art from every period of art
history. 1001 Bissonnet Street, Phone: 713.639.7300 mfah.org
 Bayou Bend |
Bayou Bend
A Unique Collection of Americana from Miss Ima Hoggù–
Ima Hogg? Yes, that was a real, respected and revered woman in Texas history
and culture.
Miss Hogg, the daughter of a Texas governor commissioned a prominent architect, John F. Staub, herself and two brothers. The house was built between 1927 and 1928 on 14 acres scrub brush and huge trees. From this land she created a series of gracious and beautiful gardens that were intended as outdoor rooms and gardens for living and entertaining, not just views to be admired from within the house. The home, a wonderful example of innovative architecture filled with priceless American art on breath taking gardens, was donated by Miss Hogg in 1957 to the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. Today 28 period room settings fro 1620 through 1870can be visited in this living museum. 1 Westcott Street at Memorial, Phone: 713.639.7750 www.mfah.org/ Houston, TX 77007
 Menil Collection building |
The Menil Collection**
This wondrous art and cultural experience is
dedicated to preserving and exhibiting the art collection of Houston
philanthropists John and Dominique de Menil. The Menil campus is anchored
by acclaimed architect Renzo Piano’s first American building. This
landmark structure houses one of the world’s great (and growing) art
collections. Ever-changing exhibitions that range from antiquities to
modern and contemporary art can be seen year round. The museum's diverse
holdings represent many world cultures, from prehistoric times to the
present day. It’s a dazzling experience and making it even better is
admission is free of charge. 1515 Sul Ross Street Phone: 713-525-9400
 Twombly Gallery |
Twombly Gallery - Part of The Menil Collection**
A collaboration between the Menil Collection, the Dia Foundation, and the artist himself, the Cy
Twombly Gallery is another example of the de Menil family’s
commitment to working with key contemporary artists. The building, based on
an original sketch by Twombly , comprise a veritable retrospective of the
artist’s career that includes a number of large canvases, sculptural
works, and suites of paintings and drawings. 1515 Sul Ross Street Phone:
713-525-9400 www.menil.org/twomblygallery
 Rothko Chapel |
The Rothko Chapel - Part of the Menil Collection**
This non-sectarian chapel is truly awe inspiring. But there is an interesting
back story. In 1964 the de Menil’s asked the painter Mark Rothko if
he would be willing to design a suite of paintings for a Catholic chapel
for the University of St. Thomas in Houston. Architect Philip Johnson
agreed to collaborate with Rothko on the project. As Mrs. Menil wrote after
the visit, the artist’s work would be “remarkable... for a
chapel... so beautiful and religious.” As it evolved, the de Menils
and the University of St. Thomas diverged on the purpose of the chapel. The
Basilian Fathers’ ideas were more traditional than what the de Menils
envisioned, and in 1969 the couple redefined the chapel as a non-sectarian
worship space. 1409 Sul Ross Street Phone: 713-525-9400 www.menil.org/rothkochapel
 Contemporary Museum |
Contemporary Art Museum
Most museums collect, but the CAMH is a
non-collecting institution dedicated to presenting the best and most
exciting international, national and regional art of the last 40 years.
Founded in 1948, the Museum prides itself on presenting new art and
documenting its role in modern life through exhibitions, lectures, original
publications and a variety of educational programs and events. 5216
Montrose Blvd. Phone: (713) 284-8250 www.camh.org
For more information about Houston visit www.visithoustontexas.com and www.traveltex.com.
By Marty Bernstein
Sr. Editor at Large
